Icicle Creek and Wenatchee

Day 2 of our road trip to Leavenworth and we awoke to another sunny day and headed to nearby Icicle Creek.  (You can see the story and pictures from Day 1 here if you missed it.)

Icicle Creek originates near the crest of the Cascades and flows into the Wenatchee River near Leavenworth.  This wilderness area draws hikers, campers, and rock climbers.

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It also draws serious backpackers to one of the most popular hikes in the country:  The Enchantments in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness.

According to the Washington Trails Association website:  “In the Enchantments, nature has carved one of the magnificent places of this world–an alpine paradise of granite worn smooth by glaciers, larches manicured by wind and cold, and crystal blue lakes strung together by a creek that tumbles and thunders between them. Seemingly everywhere, herds of mountain goats calmly wander by. Superlatives simply don’t suffice, and you quickly find yourself resorting to otherworldly comparisons, just like the early visitors who bestowed place names like Aasgard, Sprite and Leprechaun on the fairytale surroundings.”

We stopped by the trail head to check it out.

No we did not take the hike. It’s challenging for even the strongest hiker and requires a minimum of two days (and that assumes you have the coveted permits, determined months in advance by lottery.)  It’s a hike that every backpacker in the state dreams about doing.  Bob did it once and we have the pictures to prove it.

Enchanting, yes, but not for me.  I never did take to backpacking. I had one failed attempt in high school and never tried again. (But that’s another story.)

After our fill of Icicle Creek we moved on to Wenatchee where we stopped for lunch at the Pybus Public Market and took a walk along the Columbia River.

The paved Apple Capital Loop Trail follows the river and has boat ramps, playgrounds, a railway, and sculptures. My favorite is PED.

Amazing that in just two days time we had covered so much ground, enjoyed sunshine and forests and mountains and flowing rivers all adorned in fall color.  A wonderful time for sure but it’s always good to be back home.

~Susanne

Road Trip to Leavenworth

A couple of sunny fall days in the forecast so we packed our bags for an overnight trip to Leavenworth.  I had to remove the stowaway who was hoping to tag along.  (Sorry Benji, you wouldn’t like the car ride.)

The sun was shining and the road was bare as we headed northeast on Highway 2, surrounded by mountains and rivers, all lit up with fall color.

We stopped for pictures of Mt Index and were reminded to be on the alert for Bigfoot who is known to frequent the area. (We didn’t see him.)

We continued over Stevens Pass, until we ended up alongside the Wenatchee River, beautiful Tumwater Canyon and finally Leavenworth.

Leavenworth was once a dying logging town but reinvented itself as a Bavarian Village in the nineteen sixties.  It’s now a popular travel destination with charming shops, restaurants and festivals.

After settling into our hotel, we went out for lunch and some shopping.  Not surprisingly I was able to find a few things to buy, before walking down to Waterfront Park where the Wenatchee River flows through town.

Hard to believe all this beauty happened on day one.  On day two, we traveled to nearby Icicle Creek and the trailhead to the Enchantments, a famous backpack into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness.  We also stopped by Wenatchee to visit the Market and take a walk along the mighty Columbia. Too many pictures and more story to tell, so I will save that for my next post.

Until then,

~  Susanne

Surprised by Rainforest

This week we happened upon the Temperate Rainforest of the Carbon River Valley just inside the remote northwest corner of Mt. Rainier National Park and enjoyed a lovely walk through the woods. Who knew?

Blessed to have all this so close to home!

~  Susanne

Alaska Cruise: Ketchikan

Well here it is already, my last post on our cruise to Alaska with our final stop at Ketchikan!

Ketchikan is in fact, the first city you would normally encounter cruising north into Alaska’s Inside Passage.  Our itinerary however, took us to Juneau first, then to Glacier Bay, followed by Sitka and lastly to Ketchikan.  Of the three cities we visited I think Ketchikan is the most colorful of them all.

And the rainiest, it turns out.

202 inches in 1949?  That my friend, is some serious rain!

And then there’s this, taken from the ‘Alaska Cruise Handbook,’ by John Upton:

“Ketchikan visitor to child: How long has it been raining?

Child: I don’t know;  I’m only five.”

So yes, it was raining in Ketchikan and we pulled out our umbrellas and explored the town on our own. I headed for colorful Creek Street, a historic boardwalk along the banks of Ketchikan Creek .

Creek Street used to be the red light district of this rough and tumble fishing and logging town. Its colorful buildings now house shops, art galleries and restaurants. Salmon still swim upstream in the creek to spawn.

Most of the sawmills in Ketchikan have closed down but you can still see the Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show on the pier. The show is fun and also demonstrates serious logging skills by young athletes.

We finished up our shopping before returning to the ship to start the journey home. The next two days we would cruise south under overcast, but beautiful skies.

While walking the promenade deck, or gazing out the window from our balcony I liked to watch the sea, hoping to catch more of this.

And this.

No, not a sea monster.  A humpback whale!  Yes, we saw them several times on our journey and every time it was a thrill!

After a week of sailing we arrived back in Seattle, happy to be home again but also happy to have finally seen Alaska.  In fact it left us hungry for more.  And though I can now cross Alaska off my list, I’m sure we’ll be back someday to see more of this wild and beautiful state.

~  Susanne

Alaska Cruise:  Sitka

We left Glacier Bay and after cruising all night, woke up early the next day in Sitka, a small, rainy, town with a large size and history.  Though the town has only 9,000 residents it also happens to be the largest city in the United States by area, at 4,811 square miles, encompassing the entire Baranoff Island and surrounding sea. (It turns out the second largest US city by area is Juneau. Everything is bigger in Alaska I guess, even the definition of a city.)

The downtown harbor is too small for cruise ships so we docked 5 miles from the center and took the provided bus to town.

Sitka is not technically on the Inside Passage as it faces the Pacific Ocean. This means the sailing gets a bit rougher. It also means it lacks the crowds and sameness of other cruise ship destinations.  We stopped at a local coffee shop and enjoyed our drinks and pastries slowly. Then with umbrellas in hand we took the boardwalk along the waterfront and watched the eagles overhead and on the nearby beach.

A few blocks away we arrived at Sitka National Historical Park. Here the Tlingit people clashed with the Russian fur traders destroying their first outpost in 1802. But the Russians  returned in 1804 and drove the Tlingits out at the Battle of Sitka.  Sitka was reestablished on the site of the Tlingit village, Shee Aitka, and eventually became the busiest port on the entire west coast of all the Americas. But by 1867 the resources of the fur trade had drastically diminished as sea otters were practically exterminated, and the Russians sold Alaska to the United States for 2 cents an acre.

The park includes a trail through the rainforest where many native totem poles stand guard.

As we stopped to admire them a very talkative raven spoke urgently and rapidly to us from a nearby tree and I began to understand its prominence in Tlingit culture.

After leaving the Park we wandered through town and picked up some mementos including some flavored salt  processed from the sea.

Then it was back to the ship to cruise to our final stop in Alaska:  Ketchikan.

~  Susanne

Alaska Cruise Highlight: Glacier Bay

After leaving Juneau we cruised through the night and entered magnificent Glacier Bay the next morning. As we entered the Bay, National Park Rangers boarded the ship and narrated the cruise for us.

According to the National Park website:  “Covering 3.3 million acres of rugged mountains, dynamic glaciers, temperate rainforest, wild coastlines and deep sheltered fjords, Glacier Bay National Park is a highlight of Alaska’s Inside Passage and part of a 25-million acre World Heritage Site—one of the world’s largest international protected areas.”

And to think I’d never heard of it before planning our cruise!  Once I learned of Glacier Bay,  I knew any Alaska itinerary must include it.  It did not disappoint. Indeed it became the highlight of our trip. Though the skies were overcast and a light rain was falling as we entered the Bay, we knew we were in for something special. Wispy clouds covered mountain tops and glacier polished rock stood proudly on all sides; sea otters and seals swam in the beautiful milky green waters, mountain goats as puffs of white could be seen on steep hillsides.

Our first major destination was Margerie Glacier which we approached around 10:00 am.  “If a glacier is fed by enough snow to flow out of the mountains and down to the sea, we call it a “tidewater” glacier – the type many people come to Glacier Bay to see. The park and preserve includes 7 tidewater glaciers that break off or “calve” into saltwater at sea level, and a few others that reach the sea at high tide only. The show can be spectacular.”  (From the National Park Website.)

It was. As we neared the glacier, we heard the thunderous roar as chunks of ice exploded and crashed into the water.

We lingered near Margerie for an hour before moving on to nearby John Hopkins Inlet and its glacier.

John Hopkins Inlet is a narrow fjord inaccessible to most ships. It’s closed during July and August as the seals of southeast Alaska congregate here to give birth to their young. It reopens in September.

‘Look ahead for what appears to be little black sausages on the ice,’ the Park Ranger told us over the loudspeaker.  ‘Those are the seals born this summer.’  And there they were!

This one even posed for us.

After several hours of cruising we finally departed Glacier Bay in the afternoon and headed south towards Sitka.

Yes, the weather could have been better. The cloud cover meant we missed some of the mountain peaks in the background. But no matter; we have seen mountains.  We were there for the glaciers.

A place I aspire to visit again.

~ Susanne

Alaska Cruise: Juneau and Mendenhall Glacier

We left Seattle on the cruise ship Eurodam on Saturday afternoon and sailed through the Strait of Juan de Fuca and around Vancouver Island towards Alaska. The first day was mostly sunny and clear but clouds and light rain descended on the second day.

Still we enjoyed our time at sea exploring the ship and walking the Promenade Deck. And eating. A lot.

On the third day dry land appeared out of the clouds and the sun was shining as we neared Juneau, our first stop and Alaska’s state capital. Another cruise ship was not far behind us and looked beautiful in silhouette against the mountains.

Juneau is the largest of all the state capitals at 3,000 square miles and the only capital to border another country (Canada.)  Of course you can’t get there from here. There are no roads into or out of the city.  Arrival is by boat or air only and all roads out of town dead end. Our informative bus driver shared these facts with us on our drive to the Mendenhall Glacier, 25 minutes from town.

Mendenhall Glacier

We arrived at Alaska’s most accessible glacier, one of 38 large glaciers that flow from the Juneau Icefield.

We took the trail to Nugget Falls, a perfect hike for us at 2 miles round trip, and were not overly concerned about this sign.

Afterwards Bob stopped by the Visitor Center while I wandered around taking more pictures of the surrounding lakes and beautiful fall colors.

Later we stopped at Gold Creek for a salmon bake.  We enjoyed our dinner next to the creek, where gold was first discovered in Juneau by two miners in 1880.  One of the miners was Joseph Juneau who lent his name to the city.

We returned to town for a bit of shopping, then headed back to our ship where we would rest and be magically transported to Glacier Bay the next day.

Up next:  the magnificent Glacier Bay.

~ Susanne