Apparently every 10 years or so we hear the call to go north. So for the past few weeks I’ve been putting together our next road trip to the Canadian Rockies. This got me going through my old scrap books (I used to do a lot of them before the digital age) and I was reminded that this will be our 4th such trek northward.
As I do for all my vacation planning, I visited AAA for maps and tour books and also bought lonely planet’s guide to ‘Banff, Jasper & Glacier National Parks.’ Thus I began plotting our route and making the necessary camping and lodging arrangements for the coming trip (in the nick of time it turns out). Our current plan is to head east to Glacier National Park in Montana, north into Alberta with a stop in Calgary, to Banff, Lake Louise, the Icefields Parkway and to the northernmost point in our trip, Jasper. We’ll return west and south through British Columbia and home again to Washington. A nice packed loop.
The first time we made such a trip was in the last century (I love saying that) and we were, needless to say, younger than we are today. We hiked to some of the most popular and spectacular vistas in the Rockies without much thought given to the length or difficulty of the trail. (Okay, mostly true. We’ve never been mountain climbers.)
I took the picture below on a hike to Mt Edith Cavell where Angel Glacier hangs from the side of the mountain.

We also hiked the famous trail from Lake Louise to the Agnes Teahouse and the Beehives and I don’t remember it being particularly hard. So I was surprised to read in ‘lonely planet’ that we had gained 1,624 feet in elevation on this ‘moderate to difficult’ trail. Surprised, because these days I tend to look for ‘easy to moderate’ with minimal elevation gain. What a difference a century makes!
According to lonely planet, “It’s a fine, well-marked route taking in forest trails, hidden lakes and scenic viewpoints, as well as a famous teahouse ~ but it is formidably steep (especially around the Big Beehive), so bring plenty of water and take regular rests.” It goes on to say that after leaving the teahouse you will reach the Big Beehive after a mile of “relentless leg-shredding switchbacks.” Apparently there was a time when I hiked trails with leg-shredding switchbacks. Not so much today. So just in case we don’t make it up there again (thinking we won’t but hey, you never know) I give you this picture of Lake Louise from the Beehives as proof of my previous climb.

No that is not a big swimming pool, it is the true and actual Lake Louise when viewed from above. Chateau Lake Louise is on the left far, far below. And yes, I really did take that picture.
By the way, this reminds me of the time we brought a group of 20 teenagers to this very spot on our second trip about 10 years later. Some of them got so close to the edge of the cliff on that same hike that I had to pull them back from the brink while reminding them that there were no guard rails and we were in fact in the wilderness. Even now I shudder to think of the responsibility we bore to bring all those teenagers home again to their parents and preferably in one piece. (Sometimes I ask myself, “what were we thinking??, did we really do that??” and the answer is yes we did! And had a good time too!)
Here are a few more pictures from the Canadian Rockies from those first 2 trips.
the Lovely Lake Louise at ground level:

the ever young husband at Moraine Lake:

Our third trip north came roughly 10 years later, this time in the month of May and finally in this century. We dropped Jasper from the itinerary and added the nearer Waterton Lakes which is on the other side of the border from Glacier. Though smaller in scale we found it to be as beautiful, quieter, and less crowded than the larger parks to the north.
From Waterton Lakes we went on to Banff and Lake Louise, where this time we found the lovely lady mostly covered in ice and not the same milky green we remembered from our summer trips.

So here we are again, embarking on trip #4, coincidentally almost 10 years after the last one. Aside from the people in the pictures, I wonder what else has changed? How will we find Lake Louise this time? Will we hike to the Beehives? Or be content with memories and photos from earlier treks, finding new adventures closer to the ground? Stay tuned for answers to these compelling questions and to view the pictures from our latest trip to the Canadian Rockies.
~ Susanne
We don’t usually make the drive to Mt. Rainier on a sunny Saturday in the middle of summer. But this past weekend that is exactly what we decided to do, heading from Renton through Enumclaw to the Sunrise side of the mountain. We didn’t make it all the way to the Visitor Center (6,400 ft) as we opted out of the bumper to bumper traffic at the entrance gate. No matter. The mountain is not limited to the boundaries of the park and we found incredible views nonetheless.
It’s Mount Rainier, after all.


~ Susanne
It was a different time and a different town. There was a big airplane company but no technology. The Smith Tower but no Space Needle. There were wrestling matches and roller derby and stock car racing, but no major league sports. It was the nineteen fifties in Seattle and the biggest show in town was Seafair.
Seafair started in 1950 and quickly became Seattle’s premier event. There were neighborhood carnivals and parades with drill teams and marching bands, where Seafair Pirates roamed. Floats carried princesses who perfected the wave to the crowds lining the streets and honorary parade marshalls included celebrities like Bob Hope and Bing Crosby.

But these were only the warm up to the Grand Finale. The Races. Hydroplane, that is.
Every year Seafair climaxed with the Gold Cup races on Lake Washington, where racers were sports heroes like Bill Muncey and Myro Slovak and boats were named Slo-Mo IV, Gale V and Miss Bardahl.
And my husband was there to watch it.

One year, there was confusion over who won, Maverick or Miss Thriftway. As deliberations were going on he and his friends decided to head to the ‘pits’ to watch the winning driver be thrown into the lake.

Sayres Pits was swarming with boats and drivers, along with radio and TV personalities. It was also protected by a chain link fence about 50 yards long – and the fence was guarded. They hadn’t planned on that, but knew they wanted to be on the other side. They decided to jump over the fence one by one in turn, when the guard was at the other end.
Delbert was first and made it over, followed by his little brother, Norman. Both disappeared into the crowd. Bobby watched until the officer was farthest away, then climbed up and over, but on his way back down his jeans caught on the fence. He landed on the other side and heard a loud pop. When he got up to run, his leg buckled beneath him and he heard a woman scream, “look at that boy’s leg!!”
Indeed, his leg was strangely bent and a wave of nausea hit him, along with the fear that he’d been caught. A crowd gathered round, and the police officer came to comfort him, then sent for a medic.
Soon the winning driver showed up, dripping wet. It was Bill Stead of the Maverick with these words, “I broke my leg when I was your age too.” Boys will be boys.

A few days later he was recuperating at home, his mom and grandma dressed up, waiting for the Sheriff to come, along with a reporter, who declared him the only casualty of the races that year.
There was some consolation when he saw himself on TV that night but he was stuck with a cast the rest of the summer. He’d have to give up jumping over fences for a while.

~ Susanne
Olympic National Park. Almost a million acres of preserved wilderness, old-growth temperate rain forests, glacier capped mountains and glacier carved lakes, wild rivers, the longest undeveloped coast in the contiguous United States. Nearby Sequim, in the rain shadow of the Olympics. Self proclaimed “Lavender Capital of North America.” All within 3 hours of Seattle. Can you see why this is one of my favorite road trips?
The itinerary doesn’t change much from year to year. It doesn’t have to. It’s got everything. Here’s how this year’s trip played out.
Day 1 Head to the Olympic Peninsula to enjoy one of the largest celebrations of all things lavender in the country, the Sequim Lavender Festival. Visit the farms and breathe deeply.
(And as you read this be sure to pronounce Sequim as one syllable, “Sqwim,” or we will know you are not a Washingtonian.)

Navigate the Street Fair and support the local economy…

Spend the night somewhere deep in Olympic National Park and breathe in the fragrance of dense forest and campfire.
Day 2 – Wake up and smell the coffee and drink the same slowly. Move on to Hurricane Ridge, a major high point in the Park (literally and figuratively) where on a clear day you can see forever into the Olympics. Even if it’s not a perfectly clear day, you can still enjoy the mountains from behind the mysterious clouds and fog flowing around you.

Continue down the road to beautiful Lake Crescent

Stop by Lake Crescent Lodge where Franklin D. Roosevelt stayed in 1937 before he signed the bill that created Olympic National Park in 1938.

Unless you are staying here continue on to Sol Duc and set up camp at the RV park and welcome your friendly neighbors, this mama deer with her two fawns..

Traverse the easy hike to one of the most photographed views in the Park..

The reward for your effort…. beautiful Sol Duc Falls.

After a quiet dinner at the Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort (yes, there is a nice restaurant and wonderful hot springs you can soak in), walk back to the camper and let the falling rain put you to sleep.. we are after all in rain forest country..
Day 3 Sleep in while hubby catches trout in the Sol Duc River; afterwards break camp and head west towards the rugged Washington Coast at Ruby Beach.

Pick up a souvenir… there are plenty of smooth rocks to go around….

Stop by Lake Quinault deep in the rain forest for a rest…

then continue on to spend the night at Ocean Shores..
Day 4 Walk on the beach in the morning and then head towards home …. and plan to do it all again next year, maybe even remembering to book ahead for the coveted lodges….

Ahhhh. Till next year.
~ Susanne
Just off of Highway 101 where it runs along Hood Canal there was a small restaurant with a home in back and attached store in front. They were owned and operated by Floyd and Elsie Chapman and the sign in front read “ELSIE’S PLEASANT HARBOR.” Hood Canal is a narrow shimmering fjord 50 miles long, reaching depths up to 600 feet, though the average is 177. The clear, blue, water is filled with abundant life and on its shores are plentiful clams and oysters. Pleasant Harbor is a quiet natural cove on the canal and that is where Floyd moored his shrimp boat.

On a sleepy day in 1963 Floyd was outside in his blue overhauls and captain’s hat, working the fire under a large kettle where the day’s catch of shrimp was to be cooked. He’d been up since early that morning when he had gone to drop the traps in the canal.
He dumped the buckets full of shrimp into the boiling water and when they turned white in their orange shells he put them in prepared cardboard boxes where they’d be stored on ice and ready for sale in the store.

The Seattle Times had taken an interest in the man and his shrimp boat and a reporter and photographer were on the scene. I was also there watching. Every summer we grandkids got to stay a week with grandma and grandpa at Pleasant Harbor. Those sunny days were filled with dusty hikes through woods to the canal below where we played on the beach and swam in the icy cold water. We dropped homemade lines off the state dock down the barnacle covered pilings where the perch were feeding and when they took the bait we yanked hard and pulled them up. If we got up in time we went out with grandpa on the boat early in the morning to set the traps or later that day to collect them filled with shrimp and the occasional hitchhiking crab or squid.
After they had taken several pictures of grandpa the reporter covering the story asked me if I liked shrimp.
“No,” I replied definitely.
“Would you eat one for a dime?” he asked.
A dime!
“Yes!” I nodded eagerly.
So he set me up just so and after he took the picture I downed that shrimp he had put in my outstretched hand. A deal was a deal.
I ran to buy candy with my dime.
Later that summer when the article appeared in the paper, there I was in my striped shirt and pearl necklace, holding that shrimp ready to drop it into my mouth while my eyes are saying, ‘oh no…. here it comes.’

And the caption read, “Granddaughter, Susan, age 8, gobbles down a shrimp with obvious delight.”
Obvious delight. A real shrimp story, that one.
~ Susanne
It wasn’t exactly red, white and blue… more like, green, green and more green.. It was a drizzly day on the 4th of July this side of the mountains so we opted to go east where the sun is always shining.. On the way we stop by the Skykomish River, a flowing turquoise in the midst of mossy green…


Crossing Stevens Pass we descend into Tumwater Canyon where the sunshine appears over the Wenatchee River….

After stopping by Leavenworth for lunch where families are celebrating the 4th in typical fashion…

we head back home over Blewett Pass taking in the expansive views…

and home again to the rainy west side .. all in all a lovely day….
~ Susanne
When I was growing up we lived in a house near the woods and in front of the house flowed a creek that provided me and my friends with hours and hours of entertainment. Whenever we had nothing else to do, one of us would say to the other, ‘want to go play in the creek?’ and off we went. That meant wandering up the path along the wooded banks daring one other to jump across at various points on the way. And during hot summer months we would sometimes swim in the larger pools though we were warned against it.
We walked through the culverts with our hands pressed against the walls, our feet straddling the water that flowed beneath. Sometimes we sat inside those concrete pipes propped up cross ways, discussing important matters of youth such as how to reconcile with whoever was currently on the outs. (It seemed we were always mad at someone and wanted to make up while saving face.)
During that era the creek was not in the best condition though we didn’t know it or care. It was never ‘Longfellow Creek’ to us, just ‘the creek’, always there and always good for hanging around. There were no fish but I remember the occasional crawdad and frogs nearby. And I remember the excitement the year heavy rain caused the creek to overflow its banks and we rowed down our street in a blue plastic boat. The best!
I wanted to go back and visit the old house near the woods and the creek that flowed in front. After a bit of research I learned there had been extensive cleanup and restoration of the area and a new Legacy Trail added. Longfellow, it turns out, is one of four free flowing creeks in Seattle, this one flowing year round into the Duwamish River. It is now home to trout, coho salmon and salamander. Evidence of beaver activity can also be found. At the headwaters of the Longfellow is the Roxhill Bog, a peat bog 10,000 years old, which is currently undergoing restoration so it can continue to naturally filter the water.
The Legacy Trail begins at Roxhill Park and wanders the next four miles through mostly residential areas, sometimes through woods and sometimes following the creek. That’s where I begin my visit.

The trail is inviting but the creek is not visible here this time of year so I move on to where I know it will be…. the dead end street where I grew up. I drive the road that seems so familiar but somehow unfamiliar at the same time.
I pull over and an old man with long hair and beard, big dog by his side, looks down at me from his driveway with suspicion. I get out of my car with my camera.
“I grew up here,” I call out to him. “I came to take a picture of the creek. Okay with the dog?”
He smiled. Yes. But I didn’t stay long.

The road is surprisingly unchanged and still feels off the grid. At the end of the road I find the old house and the creek nearby. The house has been well maintained but is a different color and seems much smaller than I remember. The creek seems wild and overgrown, narrower, and not very accessible..

I continue on to the next access point of the Legacy Trail and find this outdoor work of art…..but no easy view of the creek…

At my next and final stop off a quiet narrow road, I find this section of the trail and creek in the woods..

Lovely.
I don’t mean to sound disappointed, but I guess I am.
I much prefer the creek that flowed in my memory. When we dared one another to jump across at impossibly wide spots. Where we walked through concrete pipes and paused to tell secrets. Where we played in the woods and the salmon berries were sweet and flaming orange and red and thimble berries became caps placed on your fingers eaten off one by one.
I like knowing the creek is there and still flowing, perhaps more pristine than before with native plants and flowers and beaver if you know where to look, and salmon running though not in great numbers. I like to know I can still visit whenever I like. But if I am honest, I guess I like visiting the one in my memory even more.